We caught a night bus out of Lobitos a few days back and made our way about 9 hours down the coast to a town called Chicama, apparently home to the longest left wave in the world. We spent a night in there and the boys went for a surf, but it turns out Chicama’s not the best place to be if there’s no decent swell so we kicked it out of there and headed to another town called Huanchaco.
Huanchaco is a bigger town with more going on – yesterday it was heaving with local people out with their families for a Sunday Funday at the beach. We’ve found a great little hostel called Sud America right opposite the beach in the middle of everything with lovely people staying here, an awesome owner and very chilled staff (plus amazing showers). The beach is lined with traditional little canoe-type boats made of straw/ bamboo/something reedy that are shaped like massive pixie shoes. We’ve been out surfing a few times – Pete even managed to snap a board yesterday and I made friends with a 12 year old local kid called Carlos who gave me all the hot tips on where to sit and yelled encouragement as I paddled for a wave.
Tomorrow we’re back to Chicama as Nem’s dream 5 meter swell is coming. There’s not much internet access there, so it’s over and out for a week or so while I go and get barreled (bahahahaha!!).